Use of particular aminosilicones as a pre-treatment of processes for coloring keratin fibers with direct dyes or with oxidation dyes

ABSTRACT

A pre-treatment of a process for coloring, such as with at least one coloring agent chosen from direct dyes and oxidation dyes, human keratin fibers such as human hair, of a composition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone as well as the processes for coloring, with, for example, at least one coloring agent chosen from direct dyes and oxidation dyes, human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a pre-treatment with a composition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone. The compound itself for pre-treatment.

[0001] This disclosure relates to the use, as a pre-treatment for aprocess for coloring human keratin fibers such as hair with at least onecoloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes, of acomposition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone. Thedisclosure also relates to a composition itself for pre-treatment.

[0002] This disclosure also relates to a process for coloring, with atleast one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes,human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a pretreatment with acomposition comprising at least one particular aminosilicone.

[0003] Two main types of processes for coloring keratin fibers exist:direct dyeing, using, in the presence or absence of oxidizing agents,direct dyes and/or pigments which are colored molecules, giving thefibers a temporary color that may fade out after shampooing a few times,and “oxidation dyeing” using oxidation dye precursors and an oxidizingagent, which may give the fibers a more resistant color than thatobtained with the previous type of dyeing.

[0004] There is a need to improve the rise of these colorations onfibers, for example, sensitized fibers, since they are more porous andthey fix the colorants less.

[0005] Moreover, the use of an oxidizing agent generally may result in acertain level of degradation of the keratin fiber.

[0006] There is thus a need to limit these degradations and theconsequences they may entail on the cosmetic condition of the fiber.

[0007] After extensive research, the inventors have discovered, entirelysurprisingly and unexpectedly, that the use, as a pre-treatment on humankeratin fibers such as hair, of a composition comprising at least oneparticular aminosilicone, may allow this problem to be solved. Thisdiscovery forms at least a portion of the basis for at least oneembodiment disclosed herein.

[0008] In addition, this pre-treatment may improve the resistance ofcolorations with direct dyes or with oxidation dyes, for example, withrespect to shampooing.

[0009] One new embodiment therefore relates to the use, as apre-treatment of a process for coloring human keratin fibers such ashair with at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes anddirect dyes, of a composition comprising at least one at least one aminosilicone comprising at least one aminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group.

[0010] In one embodiment, said composition may improve the rise of thecolor, such as on sensitized hair, and/or the condition of the fibersafter coloration, for example, in the case of coloring with an oxidizingagent, and the resistance to shampooing of said colorations.

[0011] As used herein, the phrase “improvement in the condition of thefiber” means a reduction in the porosity or the alkaline solubility ofthe fiber and an improvement in at least one cosmetic property, forexample, in the smoothness, softness and ease of disentangling and ofstyling.

[0012] This effect can be remanent, i.e., long-lasting.

[0013] The porosity is measured by fixing, at 37° C. and at pH 10, fortwo minutes, 2-nitro-para-phenylenediamine at 0.25% in an ethanol/pH 10buffer mixture (10/90 volume ratio).

[0014] The alkaline solubility corresponds to the loss of mass of asample of 100 mg of keratin fibers under the action of decinormal sodiumhydroxide for 30 minutes at 65° C.

[0015] One new embodiment also relates to a coloring process comprisingapplying to human keratin fibers, such as hair, a composition comprisingat least one aminosilicone comprising at least oneaminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group, in optionally rinsing the fibers, andthen in applying at least one coloring composition chosen from oxidationdye compositions and direct dye compositions for a time that issufficient to develop the color, optionally followed by a rinsingoperation, then optionally by shampooing, and then drying.

[0016] Aminosilicones

[0017] The at least one aminosilicone comprising at least oneaminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group has, for example, the followingformula:

[0018] wherein:

[0019] A is chosen from linear and branched C₄-C₈ alkylene radicals, forexample, C₄ alkylene radicals and

[0020] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range, forexample, from 1 to 2000 and, further for example, from 50 to 150, n canbe a number ranging from 0 to 1999, for example, from 49 to 149, and mcan be number ranging from 1 to 2000, for example, from 1 to 10.

[0021] The term “alkylene radical” means divalent saturatedhydrocarbon-based groups.

[0022] The viscosity of the at least one aminosilicone, for example, canbe greater than 25 000 mm²/s at 25° C.

[0023] For example, this viscosity can range from 30 000 to 200 000mm²/s at 25° C. and further, for example, from 30 000 to 150 000 mm²/sat 25° C.

[0024] The viscosity of the at least one aminosilicone is measured at25° C. according to the standard “ASTM 445 Appendix C.”

[0025] The at least one aminosilicone has a weight-average molecularmass, for example, ranging from 2000 to 1 000 000 and further, forexample, from 3500 to 200 000.

[0026] The weight-average molecular masses of the at least oneaminosilicone is measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at roomtemperature, as polystyrene equivalents. The columns used are styragel μcolumns. The eluent is THF, and the flow rate is 1 ml/minute. 200 μl ofa solution at 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected. Thedetection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.

[0027] One new embodiment involves using the at least one aminosiliconein the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion maycomprise at least one surfactant. The at least one surfactant may be ofany nature, for example, cationic and/or nonionic.

[0028] The silicone particles in the emulsion may have a mean sizeranging, for example, from 3 to 500 nanometers, and further, forexample, from 5 to 300 nanometers, even further, for example, from 10 to275 nanometers and even further, for example, from 150 to 275nanometers. Such particle sizes are measured with a laser granulometer.

[0029] An example of a silicone corresponding to this formulation isDC2-8299® from the company Dow Corning.

[0030] Another new embodiment uses at least one aminosilicone in thepre-treatment composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition. For example,this amount may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight and further, forexample, from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

[0031] The pre-treatment composition may comprise any ingredientconventionally used in cosmetics, such as in the field of haircare. Forexample, it may comprise at least one additional surfactant and/orpolymer. These surfactants and polymers may be chosen from nonionic,cationic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants and polymers. Among theadditional polymers, aminosilicones other than those disclosed hereinmay, for example, be used.

[0032] The pre-treatment composition may have a pH ranging from 2 to 11and, for example, from 4 to 9.

[0033] The pre-treatment composition may be in various forms, such aslotions, gels, creams, shampoos, sticks, mousses and sprays. For some ofthese forms, it may be packaged in a pump-dispenser bottle or in anaerosol container. In the case of an aerosol, the composition may becombined with a propellant that may be, for example, an alkane, or amixture of alkane, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbondioxide and haloalkanes, and also mixtures thereof.

[0034] In one new embodiment, the pre-treatment composition may be inshampoo form.

[0035] When the pre-treatment composition is in shampoo form, thecomposition comprises at least one surfactant, for example an anionicsurfactant. The pre-treatment composition may also comprise a mixture ofsurfactants comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least oneother surfactant being chosen from nonionic and amphoteric surfactants.

[0036] The pre-treatment composition may be used in rinse-out orleave-in mode, i.e. its application may or may not be followed by arinsing operation.

[0037] In one new embodiment, the acting time of the pre-treatmentcomposition ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, for example, from30 seconds to 15 minutes.

[0038] The application temperature of the pre-treatment composition mayrange from 10° C. to 70° C. For example, the application temperature mayrange from 10 to 60° C. such as at room temperature.

[0039] The nature and concentration of the dyes present in the dyecompositions is not critical. In the case of colorations with directdyes (in the presence or absence of oxidizing agents), the dyecompositions may comprise at least one dye chosen from neutral, acidicand cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acidic and cationic azoand methine direct dyes, neutral, acidic and cationic quinone and, forexample, anthraquinone direct dyes, azine direct dyes, triarylmethanedirect dyes, indoamine direct dyes and natural direct dyes, and mixturesthereof.

[0040] In the case of colorations with oxidation dyes, the dyecompositions may comprise at least one oxidation base.

[0041] The at least one oxidation base may be chosen from thoseconventionally used in oxidation dyeing, and among which mention may bemade, for example, of orthophenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamines,double bases, orthoaminophenols, para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases,and also their acid addition salts.

[0042] The oxidation dye compositions may also comprise at least onecoupler.

[0043] Representatives of the at least one coupler can include, forexample, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols and meta-diphenols,mono- and polyhydroxylated naphthalene derivatives, sesamol and itsderivatives, and heterocyclic compounds such as, for example, indolecouplers, indoline couplers and pyridine couplers, and their acidaddition salts.

[0044] The nature of the oxidizing agent used in the lightening directdyeing (direct dyeing with an oxidizing agent) or in the oxidationdyeing is not critical. The at least one oxidizing agent may be chosen,for example, from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metalbromates, alkali metal ferricyanides, and persalts, such as perboratesand persulfates. At least one redox enzyme such as laccases, peroxidasesand 2-electron oxidoreductases (such as uricase) may also be used as anoxidizing agent, where appropriate in the presence of the respectivedonor or cofactor thereof.

[0045] The examples that follow are intended to illustrate in anon-limiting way embodiments disclosed herein.

EXAMPLES

[0046] The two pre-treatment compositions below were prepared.(expressed as grams of Active Material) Composition A Hydroxypropyl corndistarch phosphate 3 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.6 Oxyethylenated (40 EO)hydrogenated castor oil 0.5 Polydimethylsiloxane: 3.5 DC2-8299 ® fromthe company Dow Corning Fragrance 0.3 Preserving agents 0.3Demineralized water  qs 100 Composition B Sodium lauryl ether sulfatecomprising 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide 7 Cocoylbetaine 2.5 Glycoldistearate 1.5 Polydimethylsiloxane: 1.8 DC2-8299 ® from the company DowCorning Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3- 0.4epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, sold under brand name UcarePolymer JR-400 ® by Union Carbide Acrylic polymer as an emulsion soldunder 0.8 brand name Aqua SF1 ® by Noveon Preserving agents qs pH agents qs pH 5 Demineralized water  qs 100

[0047] Compositions A and B were applied for 15 minutes to locks ofnatural hair comprising 90% white hairs and to locks of hair sensitizedby a bleaching operation.

[0048] After rinsing and drying, a coloration was performed on theselocks and also on a control lock without pre-treatment, for 30 minutes.

[0049] Results: It was found:

[0050] that the condition of the fibers that had undergone thepre-treatment and the coloration was better than that of fibers that hadundergone only the coloration process, which is reflected by softer,smoother, more individualized hair, that is easier to disentangle and tostyle;

[0051] that the rise in the coloration was better on the locks that hadundergone the pre-treatment, for example, in the case of locks ofsensitized hair.

[0052] In addition, the resistance of the color with respect toshampooing was satisfactory.

What is claimed is:
 1. A process for coloring human keratin fiberscomprising applying to said fibers a pre-treatment compositioncomprising at least one aminosilicone comprising at least oneaminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group, and thereafter, applying to saidfibers, a composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen fromdirect dyes and oxidation dyes.
 2. The process according to claim 1,wherein said human keratin fibers are hair.
 3. The process according toclaim 1, wherein the least one aminosilicone comprising at least oneaminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group has the formula below:

wherein: A is chosen from linear and branched C₄-C₈ alkylene radicals; mand n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000, n is anumber ranging from 0 to 1999, and m is a number ranging from 1 to 2000.4. The process according to claim 3, wherein the sum (n+m) ranges from50 to
 150. 5. The process according to claim 3, wherein n is a numberranging from 49 to
 149. 6. The process according to claim 3, wherein mis a number ranging from 1 to
 10. 7. The process according to claim 3,wherein A is chosen from linear and branched C₄ alkylene radicals. 8.The process according to claim 1, wherein the viscosity of the at leastone aminosilicone is greater than 25 000 mm²/s at 25° C.
 9. The processaccording to claim 8, wherein the viscosity of the at least oneaminosilicone ranges from 30 000 to 200 000 mm²/s at 25° C.
 10. Theprocess according to claim 9, wherein the viscosity of the at least oneaminosilicone ranges from 30 000 to 150 0000 mm²/s at 25° C.
 11. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the at least one aminosilicone hasa weight-average molecular mass ranging from 2000 to 1 000
 000. 12. Theprocess according to claim 11, wherein the at least one aminosiliconehas a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 3500 to 200
 000. 13.The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one aminosiliconeis in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least onesurfactant.
 14. The process according to claim 13, wherein the oil-inwater emulsion comprises at least one surfactant chosen from cationicand nonionic surfactants.
 15. The process according to claim 13, whereinthe particle size of the at least one aminosilicone ranges from 3 to 500nanometers.
 16. The process according to claim 15, wherein the particlesize of said at least one aminosilicone ranges from 5 to 300 nanometers.17. The process according to claim 16, wherein the particle size of saidat least one aminosilicone ranges from 10 to 275 nanometers.
 18. Theprocess according to claim 17, wherein the particle size of said atleast one aminosilicone ranges from 150 to 275 nanometers.
 19. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the at least one aminosilicone ispresent in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.
 20. The process according to claim 19,wherein the at least one aminosilicone is present in an amount rangingfrom 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 21. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at leastone aminosilicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 22. The processaccording to claim 1, wherein the pre-treatment composition is providedin a form chosen from lotions, gels, creams, shampoos, sticks, moussesand sprays.
 23. The process according to claim 1, wherein thepre-treatment composition is packaged in a pump-dispenser bottle or inan aerosol container.
 24. The process according to claim 23, wherein thepre-composition is combined with at least one propellant chosen fromalkanes, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide andhaloalkanes.
 25. The process according to claim 1, wherein thepre-treatment composition comprises at least one surfactant chosen fromnonionic, cationic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants.
 26. The processaccording to claim 25, wherein the pre-treatment composition comprises amixture of surfactants comprising at least one anionic surfactant and atleast one other surfactant chosen from nonionic and amphotericsurfactants.
 27. The process according to claim 1, wherein thepre-treatment composition further comprises at least one additionalpolymer other than said at least one aminosilicone comprising at leastone aminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group.
 28. The process according toclaim 27, wherein said at least one additional polymer is chosen fromnonionic, cationic, anionic and amphoteric polymers.
 29. The processaccording to claim 28, wherein said at least one additional polymer isan aminosilicone different than said at least one aminosilicone.
 30. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the pre-treatmentcomposition ranges from 2 to
 11. 31. The process according to claim 30,wherein the pH of the pre-treatment composition ranges from 4 to
 9. 32.A process according to claim 3, wherein said human keratin fibers arehair.
 33. A process according to claim 1, wherein the pre-treatmentcomposition is left to act for a time ranging from a few seconds to 60minutes.
 34. A process according to claim 33, wherein the pre-treatmentcomposition is left to act for a time ranging from 30 seconds to 15minutes.
 35. A process for improving the rise of coloration on humankeratin fibers colored with at least one coloring agent chosen fromoxidation dyes and direct dyes, comprising, prior to coloring saidfibers with said at least one coloring agent, applying to said fibers apre-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosiliconecomprising at least one aminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group.
 36. A processaccording to claim 35, wherein said human keratin fibers are sensitizedhair.
 37. A process for improving the condition of human keratin fibersafter coloration with at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidationdyes and direct dyes, comprising, prior to coloring said fibers withsaid at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes and directdyes, applying to said fibers a pre-treatment composition comprising atleast one aminosilicone comprising at least oneaminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group.
 38. The process according to claim37, wherein said at least one coloring agent comprises an oxidizingagent.
 39. A process for reducing the porosity of human keratin fibersafter coloration with at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidationdyes and direct dyes, comprising, prior to coloring said fibers withsaid at least one coloring agent, applying to said fibers apre-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosiliconecomprising at least one aminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group.
 40. A processfor reducing the alkaline solubility of human keratin fibers aftercoloration with at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyesand direct dyes, comprising, prior to coloring said fibers with said atleast one coloring agent, applying to said fibers a pre-treatmentcomposition comprising at least one aminosilicone comprising at leastone aminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group.
 41. A process for improving theresistance to shampooing of coloration on human keratin fibers,comprising, prior to coloring said fibers with at least one coloringagent chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes, applying to saidfibers a pre-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosiliconecomprising at least one aminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group.
 42. Acomposition for pre-treatment of human keratin fibers before colorationwith at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes and directdyes, said composition comprising at least one aminosilicone comprisingat least one aminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group, wherein said compositionis effective for the pre-treatment of human keratin fibers prior to aprocess for coloring with said at least one coloring agent.
 43. Aprocess for coloring human keratin fibers comprising applying to saidfibers a pre-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosiliconecomprising at least one aminoethylimino(C₄-C₈)alkyl group, optionallyrinsing said fibers, applying a composition comprising at least onecoloring agent chosen from direct dyes and oxidation dyes to saidfibers, leaving said at least one coloring agent on said fibers for atime sufficient to develop the color, and optionally rinsing andoptionally drying said fibers.